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環山部落泰雅族Sqoyaw群服飾特色 織布耆老黃陳阿市yaki現身說法介紹

Posted On By 廖 宥婷

【記者廖宥婷/台中報導】

泰雅織布工藝是臺灣原住民諸族中之佼佼者,婦女一生都與苧麻織布緊緊擁抱,出生時外婆送來一塊襁褓布、婚前要織好自己的嫁衣、婚後要準備家人的衣物、離世與跨上祖靈橋前要備妥裹身的布料。

因此,婦女7、8歲就就開始跟著媽媽從種苧麻、剝麻皮、搓捻麻線、染線、整經等前置工作,13、14歲成年前,必須學會使用水平背帶織機且獨力完成織布,所有的線材、染材、織布機具多是就地取材,是她們運用週遭自然資源,累積生活智慧的最佳表現,也是織布與土地密不可分的重要聯結。

另,織紋蘊含了族群、家族的重要符號且代代相傳,具深厚歷史的意義等,因此泰雅苧麻織布不僅是精湛的工藝象徵,更是臺中市重要的文化資產,常為國內外博物館爭相珍藏。

 

臺中達觀部落、南勢部落、環山部落等泰雅族群,皆以苧麻織作服飾,其中環山部落的泰雅族Sqoyaw群的傳統織布工藝,已於107年公告泰雅族Sqoyaw群傳統織布工藝為本市的傳統工藝,傳統織布耆老包括有LapingㆍSuyan(林鄭秀玉)、LitukㆍSuyan(黄陳阿市)、YabungㆍTakun(楊月英)、SigeㆍHayung(林宋牡丹)、YabayㆍIpay(陳靜寛)等5人。

 

其特色使用苧麻線與交易換來的羊毛線,結合浮織、挑織等技法,織作出條紋、三角形紋、菱形紋等幾何織紋,織布質地厚重以因應高山氣候的區域風格特色。

 

位於臺中市大里區的纖維工藝博物館,以「纖維‧時尚‧綠工藝」為願景,承繼原臺中縣立文化中心編織工藝館藏品。目前常設展「纖維工藝的生活時尚」正好展出泰雅族Sqoyaw群的傳統織布工藝,包括出生時外婆送來之襁褓布、婚前織好的禮服,以及女短衣、女短裙、男長衣、披肩等充分表現環山部落Sqoyaw群的傳統織布工藝,纖博館並邀請織布黃陳阿市yaki(阿嬤)現身說法,有興趣的朋友透過展廳的QR code影音了解其工藝發展。

 

除此之外,纖博館亦蒐藏竹藤編、藺草編、漢人傳統服飾、臺灣原住民傳統服飾、當代纖維藝術作品,以及最新研發之鳳梨纖維時尚服裝、運動鞋、包袋、吸管等,反轉、開拓人們對於纖維的無窮想像。

 

纖維工藝博物館現正展出「第三屆纖維創作獎特展」,精采可期。相關訊息請上臺中市纖維工藝博物館官網(http://mofia.gov.tw/)及粉絲專頁(https://www.facebook.com/mofiataichung/)查詢。

廖 宥婷
yuio804325@gmail.com

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